Wheel Balancing Instructions
You will need to make up a stand to balance the wheels. It just has to have two parralel runners at the same height (two tressles or saw horses on level ground works). You will also need an axle, you can use the wheels axle if you can get the stands close enough together, if not you need a peice of round steel bar long enough to span the distance.
The bar doesn’t need to be the same diameter as the wheels axle smaller is actually better, you just dont want it to flex. Put the bar through the wheel centre and place the wheel between the stands with the bar on each runner, keep the wheel paralel the stands and let it go. The wheel will settle with its off balance weight downwards.
The way to balance out this weight is to use the wheel weights to offset and create a see saw balance.
IF THE RIMLOCK AND VALVE ARE NEXT TO EACH OTHER
Use one heavy weight directly opposite the centre point between the rimlock and valve and have it as far towards the rim as possible, Use another heavy weight on the spoke next to but on the other side of the wheel and have this weight around the centre of the spoke to start with. Let the wheel settle and adjust until you have a non biased see saw. You may have to try moving one or both weights to different spokes either biased towards or away from the rimlock etc but this works for most cases.
IF THE RIMLOCK IS OPPOSITE VALVE OR TWO OPPOSING RIMLOCKS ARE USED
Use one large weight as a slider on the spoke opposite the rimlock or two small weights used as explained above.
Twin rimlocks will probably only need one small weight as a slider opposite the valve.
On bikes like new KTM you will need to use all the weight supplied ,in this case double up the two small weights as the outside weight on the Rear wheel.
Refit wheels and road test bike.