Lowering Kit Instructions
Overview of install of shock spacer
The shock spacer is installed using the tool supplied in the kit, it is best to watch the video regarding the installation and removal however there are a few points to be particularly careful of:
1. Measure your spring pre-load before disassembling the shock spring, this is just a case of measuring the exposed thread on the shock, then backing of the shock ring until the spring is completely free and taking the measurement again. The difference is the spring pre-load, just re set it to the same when you re fit the spring. The number should be approx 7 – 9mm if you have the correct spring for your weight.
2. Once you have the shock aluminium bump stop and inner dust seal pushed up the shaft touching the rubber bump stop, put one layer of pvc tape on the shock shaft, don’t go too close to the seal head if you are removing a spacer.
3. If you are removing a spacer make sure there is enough thread above the tightening nuts on the tool to accommodate the movement of the seal head back out to its original position.
4. Leave the circlip in place until you have enough space to install the spacer, and replace as soon as you have removed a spacer.
5. When you fit the spacer install one half and make sure it fits perfectly with the seal head shape, and that the lower lip locks into the circlip groove in the original seal head.
6. When you release the pressure on the tool to reseat either the spacer or the original seal head, go slowly and watch to make sure the the circlip does not snag and is made captive by the spacer/seal head.
Once the spacer and circlip are seated properly, the spacer is completely captive and cannot come back out. Make sure to be methodical and check this properly.
Its a good idea to clean the residue left from the pvc tape, off the shock shaft before re assembling the shock.
Re assemble and set spring Pre-load.
The Install remove tool should be assembled as per the below images.
Installing The Shock Spacer
Removing The Shock Spacer. Inc shock spring removal
Important: The shock spacer ring has a small lip on the bottom that sits in the groove in the seal head that the circlip located in.
Make sure this lip is fitting in properly, it’s easy to see with one half of the spacer installed.
The reason to check this is there are some aftermarket seal heads that could possibly have been used on your shock by a previous owner if they had a leaky seal, we have not found one yet that our spacer will not work with however it’s best to check.
If you do find a problem with this Do Not Install the spacer and contact us.
Overview of the front triple clamp installation
The front triple clamp spacer consists of a steering stem extender and a spacer ring, the top triple clamp can be removed without removal of the handle bars and forks, however we recommend putting a strap over the frame and under the front guard and pulling tight otherwise the weight of the forks etc.. will make the lower clamp etc..drop down and you will be fighting with it to get it realigned and the top bearing back in place.
It is easier if the front wheel and forks are removed.
The steering stem extender screws in and is tightened up via the flats, a 24mm spanner or adjustable spanner will fit. Loctite is not necessary but can be used if required, a sparing amount of blue 243 or equivalent with heat used to remove.
The spacer ring then fits over the top and reassemble.
Forks should be 10mm up through the clamps to make the same as the rear.
Installation of Fork hydraulic lock extenders.
There is a video below showing the way to do this, the original alloy tops of the hydraulic lock / spring guides remove easily and can be refitted with a smear of super glue. It is a good idea to mark each one so it goes back on the same plastic part it came of off.
Refitting these parts with a smear of glue seems a little low tech however it works perfectly fine.
There is also a video below showing how to shorten forks internally using shorter fork springs, there is a racetech spring guide to refer to: ==>Here<== if this is the way you want to go.
Installing The Top Triple Clamp Spacer
Update to below video, Fork hydraulic lock extenders.
We have changed the part shown in the video below, the new part requires re using the original alloy part you remove from the spring guide.
The original part clamps in the updated part with 4 grub screws, to help with alignment it is best to install the original part first and then use the cartridge rod to start off fitting the assembly to the spring guide as shown in the video, use the hex on our part to install on the spring guide, not the hex on the original part.
You will need a 24mm spanner.
This new part means that the one kit will fit from 2003 to 2016 model bikes.
Old part fitted
New part fitted
New and old part side by side
Fork Hydraulic Lock Extenders Install
New hydraulic lock part
Fork Internal Shortening With Shorter Springs
Disclaimer: Please note that installed correctly this kit is safe and works as intended. Terra-x take no responsibility for wrong installation or use in any other manner than described in the videos on this site.
WP Closed chamber (bladder) fork videos (new)
Fork Internal Shortening Wp closed chamber (bladdder) forks
Slavens racing Wp closed chamber fork spring video
Rocky mountain atv how to bleed Wp closed chamber forks video
WP 4cs fork videos (new)
We recently made the parts available to fit the 4cs forks used on Ktm six day bikes, Husqvarnas and Husabergs.
These parts require complete disassembly of the fork.
Although these forks seem complicated they are actually very easy to take apart and work on which you will see in the videos.
This video shows how to disassemble the fork and fit the the new parts.
This is a WP video showing bleeding the fork using their standard procedure
This is a WP video showing bleeding the fork using their advanced procedure.